Danger!

I don't know why this is happening now, but public transportation officials are cracking down. Twice in the past week ticket checkers have boarded the 8 tram that I was riding. Both times I got off the tram, not inconspicuously, before they could get to me. I don't ever have a ticket for the tram so I would be in trouble. But what? I've gone months without ever seeing them and now, they're everywhere. I am going to have to buy a monthly pass or walk more. Seriously though. ATAC, don't do this to me.

The next couple of weeks are going to be crazy. I have a lot of school work to do, actually catch up on, and everyone is coming to visit Rome. I'm very excited to have people visit but I know I'll just get farther behind in school. Oh well. I should've prepared for this.

Family! Most of you will be here in 5 days!

And to finish it off...

Finally, I will end my account of Spring Break 2007. Actually I will probably keep remembering things and mentioning them but this is a good overview of it all.

Day 9 Friday
We arrived back in Tangier in the morning and hiked on over to the port. Got some ferry tickets only to get a little lost and be unsure of where to get on the boat. So we ended up just missing our boat. But the ferry guys took pity on us and snuck us on to another boat that was leaving just a few minutes later. Literally, they snuck us on. Our tickets were for another ferry company so they led us onto the boat through the cargo area and then we climbed up the maintenance ladders in the interior of the boat. And emerged into the main cabin from a door that said 'Employees Only.' That was pretty cool. This ferry was not super fast so it took about 3 hours. Most of them were spent sleeping. Having made it back to Algeciras we got to the bus station, grabbed some food and hopped on a very hot bus back to Sevilla. Hot and crowded but again, I slept and stared out the window a lot. In Sevilla we had to go to the other bus station so we took a local city bus there (a lost of bus transportation happening) only to find we had missed the bus to Madrid by 15 minutes. And the next one didn't leave til midnight. So we had about 6 hours to kill. Fortunately, Esther was still in Sevilla with her friends so we met up with them for dinner. I had a lovely time with them; they're all awesome people. So that was nice even though our plans had been all messed up. I had been getting very testy with my two travel companions lately and a break from their company was needed. It was just too much time with each other, aggravated by much travel and uncertain circumstances. But at midnight we got on another hot and crowded bus and set off on our last bus journey.

Day 10 Saturday
We arrived in Madrid at 7 AM which is too early for anything, including checking into our hostel so we sat around the bus station for awhile. This was the same station that we had slept outside of on our first night so we had really come full circle. But we knew from previous experience that there were excellent croissants to be had so that's what we did, ate croissants. Around 9 we went to our hostel where we dropped off our bags because check-in wasn't until noon. Then we walked around Madrid a bit. Having been there before, I could find my around to the major attractions. It was funny how familiar Madrid felt even though I don't actually know it that well. But having come from a place where I couldn't speak the languages and had no idea where I was ever going, this felt like home. We had churros for breakfast then went to the Prado which I enjoyed immensely. But again my travel companions were getting cranky and clearly did not enjoy the art like I did. So we left relatively soon and went to the hostel for a siesta. They went to sleep but I decided to walk around Madrid more. I also checked my email and felt really popular because I had a lot of emails. I also called Jake and made plans to hang out with him that evening. I figured he would be good to have around since he's been living in Madrid and also it would be another relief from my fellow travelers. Then I too took a siesta and a much needed shower. We went to the Plaza Mayor which was packed with Danish people in town for the Spain v. Denmark match. They were funny and drunk even though the game was still 5 hours away. We just had drinks and watched all the activity for awhile. Then for dinner, I had fish and chips. I know, not exactly Spanish. But in Marrakech, all the people pick up random British phrases and just yell them at you to get your attention. And one of them is fish and chips so I had been thinking about them a lot. And luckily the guy at the hostel recommended a nearby restaurant that happened to serve fish and chips. It was destiny. Finally we met up with Jake and his roommate Alec whereupon we hopped back and forth between a couple of pubs to watch the soccer game. Ashly left really early because she was tired and then Alec left to meet some of his Spanish friends. Molly proceeded to drink a lot more than either me or Jake and tried to befriend some Danes. She also really did not like Jake. Why? I'm not sure but at that point I didn't care what she thought. I was getting really mean and hostile to Ashly and Molly by this point. Anyway, around 3 AM we went home, only after I flat out rejected Molly's pleas to go to a club with some Danish guys. She was pissed about that but I was tired.

Day 11 Sunday
Had another chance to sleep in. As usual I was up before everyone else but I liked having some time to myself. When they got up we got breakfast and then went out into the city again. It was a lovely day; I was again perfectly content to just walk around. We passed by the Palacio Real and then sat in the Plaza de Espana for a bit, people watching and the like. Esther was supposed to meet us in Madrid on Monday for our flight home but got confused and went to the airport Sunday morning. So she decided to just go home that day. Molly and Ashly, hating Madrid, decided they wanted to do the same but it would've been way too expensive so they were forced to stay. I would've preferred having them leave because they were really bringing me down. Fortunately, we went to the Parque del Buen Retiro which was packed with people out enjoying Sunday afternoon. I ditched the two of them and met Jake and some of his friends. We walked around and talked until I was called back to the two helpless ones. We didn't have a hostel booked for that night so they needed me figure out what to do. So we went back to the hostel from the night before and got beds there. Not that difficult. Then I met Jake again for tapas and Ashly and Molly went somewhere else for tapas. They were invited along with me and Jake but I just couldn't handle them anymore. The whole situation had gotten pretty bad. Anyway, I had a lot of fun in Madrid, even if nobody else did. So then I went to bed and woke up 5 hours later to get our flight back to Rome which went smoothly. Or as smoothly as it can go when you can't even bear to look at the people you're traveling with. I'm being harsh. But anyway, it felt nice to be back in Rome. It was truly like coming home. Except we came home to a not from JCU Housing saying they had inspected our apartment and it was "a shambles! unacceptable!!" Now, I know it was a little messy and maybe more than a little dirty but nothing compared to some other people's apartments. Nevertheless, I agree, it was not acceptable. Last night Esther and I cleaned the entire place, top to bottom. I feel much better now. Other roommates didn't help and didn't say thanks. What are you going to do?

So that was my spring break. I keep remembering little details that are funny/awesome/mean but I don't have the energy to include them now. Hopefully I'll just remember them and they'll come out when I talk about my adventures. All in all, it was an amazing trip. I can do anything now. I even looked up shark diving but that is pretty expensive so until I get a financial sponsor, that'll have to wait. I'll figure out some other things to do. My relationships with Ashly and Molly have changed; I know them a lot better and I know that we're not so compatible as travellers. I also know that I will always have to travel. I love being at home but new places are amazing. So yes, I am ruined. Well, that's it for now. I've got to get back to school work even though I decided I should be having more fun. And fun is taking time from school. Ah, so be it. Mom, Dad, Galen, and Nolan will be here in a week! I am so excited to see them. Unfortunately, they won't be able to meet Molly or Meryl as they are going to Greece for Easter. I would've liked to have them meet each other but I guess it's not meant to be. Actually, right now, I am going to make some pasta. My favorite.

Let's continue

Day 5 Monday
We woke up early and headed over to the Djemaa el-Fna, the main square of Marrakech. There we met Omar, our camel trekking guide, and the 5 others who would be joining us. There was Andrew and Caroline, a young British couple, and Cindy, Vid, and Charlotte, three students from Cambridge. Cindy is actually from the U.S. so the nationalities were even. Omar is Berber which means he is a member of the indigenous people of North Africa. (Famous Berbers include: St. Augustine, Terence, and Zinedine Zidane) He was born out in the desert so he knows his way around there pretty well. Now he leads tours through Morocco and the desert. Good stuff.
We spend Monday driving from Marrakech in the direction of Merzougae which is a city close to the edge of the desert. We didn't make it there all in one day because we stopped at various places. We stopped at two casbahs (requisite rock the casbah joke here) and had Moroccan tea. We also stopped at Dades Gorge which is amazing. A river flows through two sheer cliffs faces which people can climb. I wish I could rock climb but I probably would start with something easier. Anyway, the drive was beautiful. We went through the Atlas Mountains too. They were amazing. Snow at the tops but lower down they were just red. Very red with some green vegetation. And the drive was a little scary with all the switchbacks and a lot of times no guardrails and speeding and donkey carts and people. But everybody survived. So it was a long day but definitely worth it.
And now a word about Moroccan food. There isn't a whole lot of variety here but it's good. Couscous is always good as are kebabs. Tajine is a stew like dish with veggies and meat; I always went with the lamb. Omelettes are also big and some crepe like things for breakfast with a bit of jam. Also lots of flat bread and olives. Moroccan tea is a very sweet, hot, mint tea which is good but can be a little too much sometimes. Also there's some sort of way to pour it but I can't do it because I was afraid I'd spill. Oh and fresh squeezed orange juice. That is delightful. Anyway, that's mostly what I ate the whole time.
That night we stayed in a little hotel somewhere in southeast Morocco. There was a group of Berbers at the hotel who played drums and sang for us. They had an electric banjo too. OK, it wasn't a banjo but a stringed instrument similar to a banjo. It was amazing. Some of the best music I've ever heard. They were a bunch of older French couples there too and they got chosen to be dressed up in traditional Berber dress and dance a bit. It was very cute because they were a little embarrassed but clearly having a lot of fun. They were groups of older French couples all throughout Morocco; it's a popular destination for them.

Day 6 Tuesday
Another early wake up to finish our drive to Merzouga and the desert. More scenery and tea but we were all getting really excited to see the camels and desert. We weren't really on any roads anymore. Just driving through a very arid landscape in the direction of the desert. But we couldn't see any desert yet and though there were some camel crossing signs, no camels. Then we crossed over a little ridge and there it was in front of us. Huge dunes of golden-orange sand. They just sprang up from the cracked, dry earth. There wasn't any transition. It was the Sahara. And camels! They are big and when they yell, they sounds a bit like Chewbacca. We were all a bit anxious to get started. Omar tied scarves around our heads in the correct Berber manner and then we jumped on the camels and headed out. We were tied together in a caravan so nobody would get lost and there were two other guides besides Omar. They walked though. And Omar trekked all over taking his own path. Obviously he knows where he's going but out there, to me, every dune looks like the next. We rode for an hour and half to two hours. Riding camels isn't scary and not very hard. There's a saddle and they're pretty slow. I would always get a little nervous when we went down steep dunes because I wasn't sure the camel would be able to keep it's footing. Of course it did but I held on tight. It wasn't particularly hot out there either. Granted it is early spring still and Omar assured us that it got hot. Very hot. I was very comfortable though. It was like stepping into a postcard. Every picture you've seen is accurate, only being there it's just more. There's nothing like it. I felt as if I could've been on another planet. It was surreal to say the least. I also decided that next time I want to sled down some dunes. That would be fun. After a bit, we reached our camp. Nestled between two huge dunes, Omar had a tent set up. Very spacious really. Then we climbed up a big dune to watch the sunset. Climbing this thing was hard and we all struggled. The sand is rather fine too so we all picked up some extra pounds of sand in our shoes and pockets and mouths and ears. But it felt good tor each the top even though it was overcast so the sunset wasn't much to speak of. This is when my camera broke (I'm assuming there's sand in it) so I didn't get pictures of the 2nd half of our journeys. So that means I just have to go back. After the sunset we slid back down to camp and had dinner, more tajine, bread, and couscous. Omar and his buddies got a fire going and we all sat around while they played the drums. Omar had also let us stop earlier on the drive over to get some beers so we sipped those around the campfire. He obviously knows his audience because getting alcohol in Morocco isn't as easy as it is in other countries because it's Muslim. But he knew people would want a drink. It was all very pleasant. They let us try the drums too. I was undoubtedly the best one there... I'm sure it was absolute cacophony to Omar and his buddies. Then we just sat around and talked. The sky was very clear and we could see nearly every single star ever I think. I identified various constellations (Dad, I'm sure you would've known a lot more but I held my own) though their positions in the sky were different than at home. Then we turned in for the night and slept on some pallets in the tents with lots of blankets. As soon as I got into bed, it got really cold. I could feel the cold air blowing on my face so I had to duck my head under the covers. I slept pretty well except for when I heard some scratching noises and became convinced that a scarab was crawling on my pillow. I'm pretty sure it was just the camp's cat prowling around though.

Day 7 Wednesday
Woke up quite early as one tends to do when camping. It was still chilly out and overcast again so no sunrise. We had breakfast then got back on the camels to head back out of the desert. By this time, I felt like I could ride a camel for days into the desert. Next time I'll go for a week or something. Get farther out because in reality, we weren't very far into the Sahara. If Omar had abandoned me, I could've found my way out within a day. But despite my belief that I could be a desert dweller, I think we all know I wasn't made for it. Pale skin, light eyes...not so good for desert life. Anyway, we made it out of the desert and said goodbye to our camels. Then back into the Jeeps to drive all the way back to Marrakech. A much quieter drive because we went straight through and everybody was tired. A little awestruck that we had just done that too. Got back to Marrakech around 8 PM or so and dumped our stuff back at the riad. Then we headed out to Djemaa el-Fna to get dinner and see what it was like at night. It was amazing. Full of food stalls that set up tables and people milling around. Also smoke was billowing from the grills because there's a lot of meat being cooked. The guys working the food stalls will come out to you and give you menus and urge you over to their place. Meanwhile their neighboring competitor is trying to entice you away. They all serve the same stuff though. Just go wherever you want. It's all not very sanitary but very colorful and fun. While we were eating we watched a group of Spaniards try to decide where to eat. They were quite sought after and anytime they started in the direction of one stand, all the employees would start cheering and the competitors would boost their efforts. It was great. At dinner another American sat down with us. His name was Paul and he was travelling alone; he didn't say it but he spotted us as Americans going to this place and followed us there. I would've done the same to have someone to talk to. Anyway, he was a talker. But it was good to just meet someone like that. He had traveled a lot and had lots of stories. But we were exhausted so we went headed back to riad and bed around 11.

Day 8 Thursday
We got to sleep in a bit but were up and ready to go by 11. This would be our first time seeing Marrakech in the middle of the day. It was busy, lots of tourists but they were mostly French or British. Not many Americans at all. In fact, any time we told a shopkeeper or waiter or anything that we spoke only English, they assumed we were British. And when we said no to that, they assumed Canada, Quebec especially. Sometimes I just said I was from Vancouver. One really does get a different response when they realize you're American. The main square was full of orange juice vendors. They'll yell and try to coax you over. There were snake charmers, acrobats, musicians, storytellers, and some fellows dressed up in colorful outfits with big hats that had fringe. I don't know what they were there for except photo-ops. It was quite a scene. Then there are the souks. A maze of markets, covered and uncovered, in the tiny streets of the city where one can buy anything. There are different areas, like carpet, leather, shoes, food. But we wandered around those forever. The shopkeepers were just as persistent and eager for your business. They'd call out at us and if you even stopped for a moment just to look, they'd be all over you and urging you in to look more. And everything is negotiable there. You have to bargain with them. They'll set the price unreasonably high and you set in unreasonably low. Then from there you work it out. I'm not great at this but I tried. And it's always a good idea to start to walk away or mention that the guy four stalls down gave you a better price and you're going there. It's all a big game. Fun but tiring. We were completely lost, no maps could do us good. So we weren't able to find the Koranic school which is apparently beautiful or basically any other historical sights. We did see the big bell tower that Sevilla's Giralda is modeled on so that was nice. I was perfectly content to just wander around and take it all in. Marrakech is just one big show and there's always something going on. My travel companions were less than enthusiastic about it all though and were becoming quite trying. They had become disenchanted with Morocco, I think. I had not however. We also sampled some Moroccan sweets. I have no idea what they were but they were good. That evening we went to the train station and got the night train to Tangier to go back to Spain. It was much less eventful than on our way there. Early on, the other two had fallen asleep and I was just about to when a man walked by an tapped me on the head. I didn't see who it was but I was awake now so i just did some reading. Then a bit later the man walked by again and tapped my head again. He wagged his finger at me and said 'No sleeping' and nodded at the other two. I think he may have been French and was telling me that one of us had to be awake at all times, to watch our stuff and such. But I'm not really sure. Anyway, I stayed awake basically the rest of the night. The train was freezing cold too so sleeping wasn't comfortable anyway. It was a long night but I got some good thinking done.

OK, once again I will stop here. The next entry will finish up my adventures. And again, if you want the really good details and gossip, just ask me. I'll hold forth for hours.

Spring Break 2007

Where to begin? The 10 days of my spring break were absolutely unbelievable; I don't think any words or pictures will quite explain them. This was a true life experience. I don't want to say it changed my life but it did something. I feel like I am more aware of what I'm capable of, of what I can do even in the most foreign situations. These travels have been truly remarkable, once in a lifetime really. It's absurd that I'm only 20 years old and can check off some of those things on the 'life to-do' list. This trip was everything: stressful and peaceful, comfortable and very uncomfortable, mundane and exotic. In short, the best and worst of travel. So I willgive you a day by day account og it all. This isn't everything because there's too much to remember but it will be long. You're going to love it though.

N.B. At times I may have knowingly placed myself in potentially dangerous situations. Don't do that. I am safe and well because I am hardcore and rugged but you might not be so lucky. Also, to my parents, I'm sorry if any of this worries you. I won't do it again...or I probably will but not tell you til after it's done.

Day 1
Esther, Molly, Ashly and I left Rome Thursday evening to fly to Madrid. So far so good. Upong getting to Madrid we didn't know what bus station we needed to be at to get to Sevilla. So we went to one but that was wrong and then we got to Estacion del Sur which was right but we had missed the last bus that night. So we were stuck in the bus station at 1 AM with nowhere to go. Then we got kicked out of the bus station because it was closing. So we found a little bus shelter on the street and spent the night there. Maybe that was dangerous but there was another group of backpackers across the street. I like to think we were both keeping an eye on the other group to make sure they were safe. But maybe not. Anyway, I stayed awake the whole time because that was important to do. It got pretty cold but we played cards and talked and I thought it was a grand adventure. And now I can sleep on streets anytime I want.

Day 2 Friday
They opened the station again at 5 or 6 in the morning so we went back in, along with all the homeless people and other rugged travelers. We had to wait for another few hours for the bus but that was ok. I began to dust off my Spanish skills and rock the Spanish lisp. I know, you are jealous. So we rode the bus for 6 hours and arrive in Sevilla in the early afternoon. There Esther's friend Tommy met us and helped us get settled. He's studying there for the semester and he's really nice and awesome so it was a great intro to the city. We stayed in a cool little hostel not far from the center of town. Also we met a girl who was from the Iowa City area. She and a friend were biking thgough Spain. But she had to cut her trip short because she had to go home and start training for the Olympics. She's a triathlete. That's when I decided I needed a better story than 'Spring Break!' But I never came up with a believable one. We had lunch and walked around a bit and generally relaxed. There was a little fair going on to celebrate the three cultures that settled Sevilla so we got to see a lot of handcrafted goods and such. That night we had tapas and Tommy took us to a flamenco show. It was amazing; the dancer was very intense and the singer and guitarrist were great. Then some other couples got up and danced the sevillanas. It was a lot of fun because it was at a place that was more local and authentic. We went to bed pretty early that night because we were all exhausted.

Day 3 Saturday
Molly, Ashly, and I woke up early to get our bus tickets to the port town of Algeciras. Then we went to the cathedral (biggest in Europe) and climbed up La Giralda (bell tower) to get a spectacular view of Sevilla. It was beautiful, sunny, warm, and friendly. Kind of touristy but that's ok. We also saw Christopher Columbus's tomb. Then we met up with Tommy and Esther for lunch. He took us to this awesome place for bocadillos (sandwiches) and beer. Delicious. Walked around Sevilla more, saw some good street performers and musicians. Then Tommy and Esther left to go to a concert and we just hung out arounde the city. Had some sangria by the river and took it easy. We were in for some serious travel so we decided to relax while we could. Then that night we got on another bus and headed off to Algeciras.

Day 4 Sunday
We arrived in Algeciras around midnight and with nowhere to stay because our plans had changed just before we left Rome and we hadn't expected to be there for the night. But we decided we could be on the streets again because we had already succesfully done it in Madrid. But Algeciras isn't quite the same and was a little darker and scarier. Fortunately just by walking a block or two from the bus station we found a cheap hostel that was decent. After all, we only needed beds. We woke up early to get a ferry, managing to just catch to 9 o'clock. The ferry port was very crowded with Moroccans going back and a large group of elderly South Americans on tour. There was also another group of backpackers; they were far more rugged though and Polish. The ferry was awesome. It was the super fast ferry so it only took an hour to an hour and a half. But it wasn't exactly smooth and walking around was hard. I talked to the Polish people a bit more and began to befriend them. The main one who spoke English said he thought I was Polish at first but then saw that I had a North Face bag so he knew I was American. But the Polish like North Face and Americans so it was ok. And now I know I could maybe pass for Polish. Anyway, it turned out that they were also going to the train station in Tanger (the Moroccan port) so we tagged along with them. We hiked from the port to the station, with a few wrong turns but nothing too bad. We got there in time to catch the 11 o'clock train to Marrakech but didn't have dirhams (the Moroccan currency) and the atm rejected me at first so then we missed that train. The next one was at 1 though so we just hung out with the Polish people at the station. And this is when I made a Moroccan friend. I was just sitting quietly and a young woman sat down next to me with her mom. Apparently despite my somewhat disheveled appearance, she thought I looked friendly so she began to talk to me. Unfortunately I don't know Arabic or French and her English was very limited but we managed ok. I think. She's a student in Tangier but was going to visit her grandparents in Sidi Kasem, where we had to change trains. So she basically made it her mission to be my best friend. We sat in the same compartment along with two other Moroccans. Hanane, my new friend, was really happy to talk to me so we passed the time having conversations though we may having been talking about different things. She kept telling me to come to her house and she would make me dinner but I had to decline because there wasn't enough time. But she gave me her number and address anyway and told me to call or write. I gave her my address at home so she could write and practice English. So, if a letter from Morocco comes for me, it's from her. Anyway, the train ride was long and very hot but the countryside was gorgeous. At Sidi Kasem, we said good bye to Hanane and her mom and got on another train to go to Marrakech. Moroccan transportation is a little different though. Basically, however many people you can fit on the train, get to ride. We weren't totally aware of this though so we didn't storm the train like everyone else. We did get on but there were no seats and it was entirely packed, all the aisles, the places where two cars connect, everywhere. So we ended up just standing for a long time although we were all in different places. It was maybe a little uncomfortable but an amazing experience and I absolutely loved it. I was jammed into this train car with all Moroccans, who spoke no English, and the train door was broken so we could see everything just flying by. Everytime we stopped, people would push on and off and everybody would get jostled about. It was very colorful and animated. We had to change trains again at Casa Voyageurs. Molly and Ashly had found seats on the previous train and made friends with some Moroccan men. I looked surly though so they didn't talk to me but I was ok with that. Anyway these guys waited with us til our next train but we managed to get rid of them once on the train. This train wasn't as crowded because it was getting to be late but we still had to stand for awhile. A little girl walked by me holding two chicks, one was dyed red and the other blue. I don't know why. A group of young men drummed on the side of the train and sang songs too. They liked Ashly and talked hip-hop and rap with her, sort of. Eventually we found seats and I sat next to Nabil. He's a student in Marrakech and he spoke the best English of anyone we had met thus far. He was also very clearly gay so I didn't have to worry about him being a creeper. He was eally nice and offered to give us a ride to our riad (hotel) but then his cousin didn't pick him up so he got us a taxi. And of course taxi drivers are notorious for trying to scam tourists so even though Nabil had negotiated a set price before we left, when we got dropped off the driver demanded twice that. Molly and Ashly were very put off by that but all we had to do was pay him what had been agreed and tell him no more. The driver got all dramatic and huffy but that's how they do. Then he just left so it was ok. The streets of Marrakech are very narrow and small though so we had to walk a ways to actually get to our riad. Despite some helpful directions by a little old man, we got lost. And Marrakech late at night is dark and a little scary. There was garbage and stray cats and we were lost. It's then that I began to really wonder what I had gotten myself into. But a nice couple who spoke some English guided us and we made it ok. We basically just collapsed into bed because we had to be up early the next morning to meet our guide for the camel trek.

And this is where I will leave off for now. More to come for sure. Unfortunately as I write this, I realize it doesn't nearly as exciting as it actually was. Or stressful for that matter. But you'll just have to believe me. And when I talk about this trip to you, because I will mention it all the time, maybe you'll get to hear some better details and all.

I have returned!

I am alive and safely back in Rome. I survived, generally unharmed. There's much to tell so check back because I will try to explain this crazy adventure. It'll be hard to do though. Also, this trip has basically ruined me forever because now I only want to do awesome things. I have to keep one-upping myself. What am I going to do for spring break next year after riding camels in the Sahara this year? I'm thinking swimming with sharks. Anyway, be ready for excellent stories.

This could be my last entry

I leave for spring break in 3 hours. I may not come back. And not because I decided to just run away but because I died. My hopes for having fun on this adventure are low but my hopes for having an unbelievable story are very high. In theory, it should be fun. Sevilla, Marrakech, Sahara, Madrid. Yeah that sounds cool. Oh but wait, there's a lot of traveling to get between those places and not enough time to do it. Also language barriers. Also Morocco IS in Africa, maybe not Africa-safari-Africa, but still. Another continent. I've never been to a Muslim country before either which will be interesting but different. And I am the responsible, let's plan ahead person in the group so I am dealing with all the stress of trying to make this a reality and make it as smooth as possible. It will not be a smooth journey. My travel companions have little to no information regarding anything; they can hardly complete the single task I give them. Needless to say, I am already frustrated with them and we haven't even departed yet. I most worried about our sojourn into Morocco. I will have no language skills there (I should've learned French) and I am worried about my companions ability to be culturally aware and to keep a low profile. I have adopted a policy of looking out for myself first and foremost. If you fall behind, I will leave you behind. And I will be mean. None of this dramatic stuff, no complaining. If something goes wrong, deal with it and tell yourself it'll be a good story at least. This will not go over well. So there it is. I guess I'll bid you adieu now. I probably love you so remember that after I've disappeared. (Who's dramatic now?) And should I come back, you'll get to hear some excellent stories.

Birthday!

Yesterday was Mike's birthday so we went out to dinner. His sister had told him about an intriguing restaurant so we researched it and decided to go. It's called L'Eau Vive and it's run by a French order of nuns. That's pretty cool. The proceeds all go to charity and the nuns all wear their native dress; a lot are from African countries so there are bright prints and such. Lovely French food and wine. A tad expensive but worth it for celebrations and interestingness. Another highlight of this place is that every evening at 9:30 the nuns sing a French and English version of the Ave Maria. Everyone in the restaurant joins in and it's quite lovely. We sat upstairs, up a long flight of circular stairs. There the ceiling was painted in beautiful frescoes. Apparently this place is popular with a lot of priests and bigwigs from the Vatican. I don't if that's true or not but rumor is Benedict used to eat here before he became the Papa. The table next to ours was 5 priests so who knows. The nuns also brought Mike a gelato and the restaurant sang Happy Birthday to him in French. Not a bad birthday, certainly memorable.
Then we went and got gelato at the place by the Pantheon that's always in the guide books and people say is the best gelato in Rome. It might be but I haven't eaten all the gelato in Rome. It had some cool flavors though. I got chocolate and cheesecake. So we hung around the Pantheon and then went to Mad Jack's 'Irish' Pub. It's totally fake Irish; only Italians work there. But now I know and will not be deceived. So we had some drinks and good talks and then called it a night. A fun way to say goodbye to everyone before spring break.
Oh but then I had to take my last midterm exam this morning. I was ill-prepared but that didn't matter because it was super easy. Now I am skipping classes to pack and pull myself together before I leave. And that's that.

Coffee flavored yogurt = delicious. Do they have this at home? I don't even know; I never looked for it. But they have it here. If I can find it at home, I will probably try to pass it off as some homemade espresso mousse dessert thing. It is that good.
I learned something about the Welsh last night. I was at a pub full of Welsh people who were in Rome for the Italy-Wales Six Nations match. (Italy won; apparently the Welsh are used to losing though so it didn't matter.) When a Welshman doesn't know the name of another male, he will call him Trev, as in Trevor. This is especially true when talking to bartenders, taxi drivers, and the like. Gareth from Cardiff told me about it though I don't know the logic behind it. I decided that I like the Welsh so I should probably go to Wales. I think it was just nice to be around some very open and friendly people again. Italians are very friendly when you get to know them but they can be a little stand-offish at first. Not so with the Welsh and Irish. I also want to go to Scotland, and England, and Ireland again. I should study abroad my whole life.

Celebrities love Rome

Two celebrity couples that have recently been spotted in Rome (not by me but by paparazzi): Tom Brady/Gisele and Jessica Simpson/John Mayer. The celebrities are loving this place right now. I also actually saw some Italian celebrity. A large crowd of people were gawking and lots of paparazzi were circling around him. I have no idea who it was though.
Another celebrity that I saw today: Benedict XVI. We hung out earlier this evening, you know just some religious banter going back forth. In the form of the rosary. I went to his audience for University students. There were satellite feeds to various other countries (India, England, Poland, etc,) where University students had gathered. The Pope led the rosary with each country taking one decade. All the people gathered in Rome would respond so we were all saying it together. A nice feeling of community and a look into the global nature of the Catholic Church. We all prayed together, though in a dozen different languages. The Pope showed off a little; he just had to speak several different languages. I mean come on, Benny, we know you're multi-lingual.
This was my first experience being in the same room as the Pope. And wow. He is a rockstar. People were cheering, clapping, taking pictures, waving flags, and best of all...chanting his name. Oh yes. It was like a soccer chant only for the Pope. Ben-e-det-to (clap clap clap)! Awesome. I didn't know we could do that but it happened, multiple times. He seemed like a genial, old fellow. He cracked some jokes but there were in Italian so I didn't understand them. Mostly, I was struck by how much he reminded me of my Grandpa King. This little old guy with white hair doing a two handed wave. Family: you know that wave. It was funny because I realize how much respect should be given to this man and still I couldn't get the image of Grandpa waving out of my head.
I think it's easy to criticize Benedict when he's that distant leader of the Church. But watching him today, I felt sad for him. He is just an old man, human and fragile. He never asked to be Pope, never asked to be put in a position where so many people look up to him and so many people vilify him. He has followed his vocation and done what God has asked of him. Seeing him today, despite all the security and papal ceremony, made me realize that this is a man. I wanted to know what he's like as a person, when he doesn't have to be in this performance that surrounds the Papacy. Like, maybe he doesn't like mushrooms. Or maybe he secretly likes to read science fiction. I don't know. But there it is. He is human. He may have tremendous power and influence...but he also owns an iPod. I haven't met him or anything like that. It's just that seeing him today reacting to the crowd and going about his duties made me think about the Pope in a completely different way. I think I now respect him much more for being able to take on this role. It would certainly take extraordinary faith and dedication. I suppose I wanted to say this here because I know many people are not happy with him and his stance on many things. I disagree with him sometimes too. But I don't think I can ever criticize him so harshly because I have seen him in this way. Just think about it. He's nearly 80 years old. Most people want a quiet life of peace at that age; Benedict can't have that. That's why I felt sad for him. Even though he is a religious rockstar.

Public Transportation

I take the tram every day. Tram 8, specifically. I could walk and sometimes I do, but the tram is amazing for various reasons. Also buses. I am better at public transportation in Italy than I am at home.
1. I never buy a ticket so it's free. Unless they decide to do a ticket raid! and they catch me. It hasn't happened to me yet so that's good. Otherwise I would have to pay them 50 euro on the spot or be charged a lot more. It makes me a little nervous and makes riding the tram even more thrilling. Italians seem to get monthly passes or else they just risk it too. Just don't get your ticket validated; it makes you look stupid.
2. The same ticketing applies for buses. Not so much for the Metro and definitely not for trains. Those are all good methods of getting around though.
3. Trams have musicians. Accordions, violins, guitars, vocal, sometimes a bass. I've seen them all. You get to the point where you recognize the musicians and develop favorites. Or get very annoyed. One man always plays a Gypsy Kings song but with the wrong beat. Another violin guy only knows one song and he has a big speaker so you can't escape it. But live music.
4. During rush hour, it's really crowded, hot, and smelly. People literally jam themselves in til it's packed. I don't like that so much. Mainly because I have a hard time keeping my balance unless I am holding on to something. And when it's crowded I can't hold on so I fall into strangers. The dangers of this are getting pick-pocketed or having an Italian man hit on you.

On another, non-Italian related note: Fall semester classes were posted today. This is the best and worst day of the year for me. On the one hand, I get to look at lots of fun classes and plan my future. On the other, I realize there isn't enough time for all the cool classes and get sad.
Also, I have a lot of applications for extracurricular activities that I need to turn in. And I am on pins and needles regarding applications that already have been turned in. I just want to know my future. That's really not so much to ask.

Not much happening of late. I feel like that's an awful thing to say while I'm here. But I guess I am getting used to the day to day stuff so everything isn't a new experience. It's like I do live here; I have to go get normal things done so I can't be always running around having crazy adventures. But it's good this way. I like it.
Last night, Mike, Ami, Mike's sister Carrie, and I went to a wine bar and just sat and talked for a few hours. We also played 1-Up, a game taught to us by Esther. Think speed Scrabble and awesome. Naturally, I love it. Also Carrie is a really cool girl. We got along really well. Too bad she's only here for another day. Tonight, Mike, Carrie, Esther, me and a few others went for Indian food. Delicious. Carrie and I made plans to see the Bocca della Verita tomorrow. She loves Roman Holiday and Mike is in class all day so I figured I could be her tour guide for a bit. It'll be a really busy day with 3 classes and all but it should be fun.
I've taken 3 of my 5 midterms so far. Based on the amount of effort I put in, I feel good. I am stress free which means I will live longer. Though my grades may be a bit lackluster. Ahh, so be it. I feel good.
I'm staying in Rome again this weekend. Esther is going to Venice with Mike so I'll have the room to myself which I do enjoy. I would like to find some people I can travel with that aren't my roommates. That's one thing that I am missing right now. I don't have that ability to just meet people everywhere I go and come back with stories of the awesome people I hung out with all weekend. I need someone to do the initial work for me. Eh, whatever. I'm pretty good with how things are now. But what am I going to do after school gets out? Travel alone? Hey, that would be an adventure so maybe yes.
Coconut gelato is delicious. Strawberry is always good but combine it with coconut and you have heaven. Also, tram musicians. I should talk about those at some point. But now, I sleep because I have to be at the Colosseum at 9 AM for class. That's what I do. Go to ancient monuments for class. Crazy I know.

Fires, Lamborghinis, and Segways

So I went to Piazza del Popolo today. I was going to look at some art but the church was closed so I sat on a the fountain and read/people watched. That place is excellent for people watching. And also...Segways. Yes, watching people ride on Segways is awesome. You can rent them in the piazza and zoom around. Also, they come in various sizes so even tiny children can ride them. Esther and I have a dream of seeing two people on Segways high five each other. Just picture it.
As I was walking back along Via del Corso, I saw some Lamborghini cars parked on the street. Lots of people were just standing around looking at them. I am not a car person but they were beautiful. I would drive one. Unfortunately, I don't think that'll ever happen. And I have no idea why they were just parked there; publicity maybe? Anyway, cool.
Also on Via del Corso (this place is full of activity) there was a fire! In a building right near the Piazza Venezia and Vittorio Emanuelle monument. So lots of firetrucks and stuff. I don't know what exactly burned but there was a lot of smoke. And after everything was put out and had calmed down, they were just trying to keep the area blocked off so they had people standing in a line, crowd control style. Except these people weren't law enforcement officials. They were Scientologists. No joke. Wearing bright yellow jackets that said 'Volunteer Minister', they were the same folks who have been handing out fliers and have a tent in Largo Argentina. Suspicious, in my opinion. Did somebody burn a Scientologist site? I am going to try to decipher some Italian news to see what the deal is.
Also, the Italian government is pulling itself together. Prime Minister is staying in office and his rival decided to back him up rather than try to get in office himself. Nice work, guys.

Midterms?

With midterms coming up this week, I am naturally not studying but rather wasting time in myriad ways. I haven't really done anything too exciting this past week/weekend. I've developed something of a cough, not a bad one by any means, but it's annoying. I should go to the farmacia. It's on my list.
I've gone out a few nights lately to Campo di Fiori. It's a big piazza with lots of restaurants and bars around it. A popular spot with some Americans. It's fun in its way but I've gotten over it. Maybe it's because I feel like I'm back in IC when I'm there. And why come to Italy if you're not going to remember it? I wonder that sometimes. Last night, a couple of us just had drinks at a smaller bar in Trastevere then hung out in Piazza Trilussa. Those Italians know what going out should be. They sit in a piazza, on steps, fountains, whatever there is, have a beer or two and just hang out. Or they'll just walk through the streets (which are packed at night) and stop every once in awhile to get a drink and then keep going. That's pretty awesome really. I wish we could do that in the U.S.
On Thursday, the tram broke down as I was trying to get to class. It was awful because it was hot and crowded and they kept opening and closing the doors so we kept thinking they had figured out the problem. But then we just got off and walked to class. It was far away and we were late. But then we went to the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum. So I felt better after a rough start in the morning.
My art history professor calls on me a lot in class. And back when we started the class, I knew the answers because it was ancient art. But now we're in the Middle Ages and I don't know this stuff but he still calls on me. I never know the answer. And finally this week, after another 'I don't know' he actually said that I've been striking out a lot lately. Yeah, thanks for pointing out the obvious. He doesn't call on other people nearly as much so the sheer number of times where I've had to say I didn't know the answer makes me look dumb. The other kids don't know either but they never have to admit that. I need to work ahead or something so I can maybe partially redeem myself. Professor, there are 20 people in the class. Don't pick on me.
I think I am going to go look at some art in churches today (Mom, I'm scouting out the Caravaggios) or sit in a piazza and write postcards or just wander around. The weather is absolutely perfect (the puffy jackets are still on though) so I need to get out. No studying will happen.