Italians: Take off your puffy winter coats. It is 65 degrees outside. Seriously, you don't need that scarf or those gloves. And stop giving me weird looks because I am not wearing a winter coat. You are the weird ones. It's snowing and icy in other places and those people are wearing fewer layers. Ok. I'm glad we had this talk.

So yeah, Italy is reaping the benefits of global warming. It's never really been winter here and now it's all spring-like and beautiful. Guess who does their homework while sitting on the steps in St. Peter's Square? Oh right, I do. That's a good place to go to sit outside, do a little work, and people watch because I don't get hassled by anyone. In other piazzas creepers will try to sit next to you or something but not at St. Peter's. Sure, sometimes I have to take pictures for Asian tourists but that's really ok. Also, I can conveniently send my mail. Yep. That's all I've got for now. Oh except one other thing. Tourists are flocking to Rome again and I don't like it. They're crowding everything up and there is no space for the regular people. I don't know how Romans stand it. So, tourists, go away so I can enjoy the city in peace. Grazie.

Getting Away

A lovely weekend spent mostly outside the walls of Rome. Friday I had to stick around the city because I had a make-up class which was awful and boring. But on Saturday Esther and I went to Ostia Antica which is just a mere 30 minutes away. But it's a different place. It's the sire of Rome's old port town and it has some of the best preserved ruins of an ancient city. It's also normal, everyday life ruins so you get an idea of what aregular town was like back then. And the best part is...you can touch everything. They just let you loose on the ruins and you can climb and touch and chip away as you please. I did not steal any rocks though. I was very pleased that I could touch everything because I always like touching old stuff and I even got to climb around on walls and stuff. I did feel a little bad because my actions are clearly not contributing to the preservation of the site but still. I had to. You can't touch anything in Rome. So Ostia is awesome. I'll be going back there a number of times for one of my classes. I'll act more scholarly then. Today (Sunday) I decided to strike out on my own. My first real solo adventure outside of Rome and I went to Assisi. Well before that I wandered around Termini train station and found Santa Maria Maggiore which I've been learning about in my art history class. A lucky coincidence. I walked in and Mass was going on so that was equally lucky. I think there were some important clergy there, lots of red hats and those security-type fellows. Oh and a priest choir! Absolutely lovely. So I was quite pleased with that as I rode to train to Santa Maria degli Angeli/Assisi. The station is actually in Santa Maria which is about 3 miles from Assisi which is in turn on a big hill. I wandered around Santa Maria for a bit then decided to walk/hike up to Assisi. A brilliant idea. Truly. It was nice and cool and a little bit blustery. A long trek but it was kind of like my only little pilgrimage. The Basilica di San Francesco is beautiful, obviously a very popular site. And all of Assisis is built from this pretty pinkish stone. So I got to see St. Francis's tomb and all that. It started getting stormy while I was there which I was pleased about. I love a good storm so my walk back was fantastic. It was really nice to be alone and out in the country. I love my solitude and the opportunity to be completely away. I was the only person walking too so my hike was uninterrupted. Delightful. Then a train/bus ride home. Strangely enough, I read Kafka's Metamorphosis. I would. Very smooth for my first time outside the city alone. Clearly I can do anything now. Maybe next time I'll try an actual city. But let's not set our expectations too high.

Also, I have been hit on/propositioned by far too many men this weekend. When Esther and I were out, two old men got all creepy on us when we were sitting by a fountain. And then when we were walking in a crowded piazza in the middle of the day, this was said to us, no joke: "Want to have sex? Yes?" NO! And there is always the usual "ciao, bella" nonsense and whatever noises they make. When I was waiting for my various means of transportation, I got a lot of that kind of stuff. Probably because I was alone. Even with my most surly and mean look, they still approach. That's the worst part of being here, I think. They can tell I'm not Italian, or even European for that matter, and that makes it worse. I am good at ignoring them and walking away but it's just annoying. I might be getting meaner while I'm here. I have to be. These Italians just don't smile and laugh in public as much as Americans do. And not so much greeting each other on the street unless they know the other person. I'm already pretty mean when walking around even Iowa City so I have practice. But watch out. When I get back I will appear Italian-unhappy in public. That doesn't mean that they are unhappy; they just don't feel the need to smile and say hello. Va bene. A little cultural difference.

Crisis!

The Italian government collapsed on Wednesday. It's ok though. Happens all the time. PM Prodi quit but he might come back. There's still a president which is good. Anyway, now I can say I have survived the fall of the government of the country in which I was living. Maybe it'll happen again in the next couple of months. Awesome.

I joined a writing group here. A girl in one of my classes organized it and asked me if I was interested. It sounds super nerdy and it is but I think it'll keep me focused on writing. I need to have deadlines in order to finish any story. So we'll see if I can produce anything worthwhile.

Apparently, I am very charming. You all know that though. But it's a bad thing and I need to stop. It just gets me attention I don't want. Cryptic. Read into that as you wish.

Let's talk about Venice

This past weekend I went to Venice for Carnevale with Ashly and Molly, two of my roommates. Meryl was supposed to come with us but she didn't buy a ticket ahead of time and by the time we were leaving, the train was full. So she didn't get to go which I was sad about but it was probably for the best as you will see.
Ok, we left Termini Station about 45 minutes late so we didn't get to Venice until around 9:30 in the evening. After some confusion about how to get from the Mainland to Venice proper and then to the island where out hotel was, we made it. We stayed on an island called Lido, very easy to get to and from the main island because of the wonderful public transportation boats. It was also a lot quieter and manageable because it was away from the main festivities. So we had a quiet dinner and then to the hotel. Something was wrong with our room so we had to stay in a little apartment across the street where they usually put up families but it was fine.
In the morning, the hotel manager called and said they needed the apartment for a family and that they had gotten a room ready for us. This was all a little mixed up in my opinion but it didn't seem to be doing any harm. We quickly put our stuff in the room and then went over to the main island to check it all out.
The weather was beautiful: bright blue skys, cool with some light breezes. But it was packed with people. Mainly tourists of course. Nevertheless, I loved it. The city was absolutely charming. We just wandered around, watching people, and checking out the tiny streets. The costumes and masks were phenomenal. So beautiful and colorful. I really wish I were a Venetian and could wear one of those huge ballgowns and go to a fancy Carnevale banquet. But I had to make do with just buying a mask to remember my visit. So after walking around all day, we headed back to Lido to shower and get ready for the night.
A couple of our friends met us at the hotel and put their bags in our room because their train was at 5 AM so they had checked out of their hostel and were just going to grab their stuff from our room and head over to the station. This is an important detail. Then we all drank some wine and put on our masks and headed over to the Piazza San Marco where everybody was hanging out and being merry. So we did the same and just walked around Venice and all that. Then we went back to Lido because the guys had to catch their train. Being very tired and having had a bit too much wine, I went ahead of the others and just went straight to bed. A little later I was woken up by some hysterical crying and yelling for me to pack my stuff because we were leaving. Extraordinarily confused, I began packing while trying to figure out why Molly was sobbing.
The story goes like this though I am still very unclear about it. Molly and Ashly came into the hotel with the guys. Ashly went to our room to change and then when she came back out Molly was crying. Apparently the hotel manager had tried to first lock the the guys, then lock them out, then cornered Molly and called her a prostitute. So Molly is crying and Ashly is enraged and yelling. What actually went down, I cannot say. Nevertheless, we got all our stuff packed and then when I finally came down to the lobby there were about 6 police officers there. Because my two roommates were in hysterics (very much fueled by alcohol and lack of better judgment) I had to try to sort out the situation with the police. Speaking a lovely mix of English, Spanish, and Italian, I had to explain that I knew very little of what happened because I was sleeping and I had to apologize for the extreme behavior and disturbance of my roommates. I think they appreciated my efforts and my generally calm and rational mindset. Anyway, finally the cops said that there wasn't much they could do except file a report and give us all the info so Molly could report it to the police in Rome.
Then Ashly and Molly decided they had to leave immediately so we set off for the train station at 4 AM. They were still very upset and unfortunately I had to take some of their anger on myself because I was directing some stern words at them in regards to their behavior. But that's fine; they just had to work through all the emotions and calm down. At the station, we saw the guys who had missed their train. Ashly and Molly were kind of useless at this point so I ended up just buying some tickets for us on the first train out which the guys were also on. So we got back to Rome around 9 AM whereupon we all slept for the entire day. I watched some TV also.
I have now basically taken myself out of the situation and am letting Molly deal with everything as she sees fit. There isn't much I can do other than talk to the police if needed. It was quite a dramatic experience and I am still very confused about what exactly happened. I don't think Molly and Ashly really know either. This experience has certainly left them with a bad taste in their mouths and I doubt they will ever return to Venice. I however am not so disinclined towards the city and would go back. It's hard to explain just how intense my roommates' emotions were and what kind of stress it put on the event so I don't think you can get a good picture. But eh, now you know. It was interesting to say the least.
It has made me a little wary of traveling with these two in the future. I am going on spring break with them though so hopefully that will be a calmer affair. I think I have slightly different priorities/interests than them which makes planning trips a little difficult. But I'm sure it'll be fine and we'll have a lot of fun. Maybe they'll have learned something from this Venice trip; what that might be, I can't say for sure, but something.

my address in rome

NB: Only postcards/standard business size envelopes may be sent to this address. No packages or anything else. Not that I'm expecting anyone to be sending me packages because that would be expensive and also I don't know how well cupcakes travel internationally.

Gillian Grady #405
c/o John Cabot University
Via della Lungara 233
Rome 00165
Italy

Tuscany

Yesterday, I went up to Tuscany to see a couple of abbeys (one that is abandoned and another that is still in use). We were up near Siena and it was absolutely beautiful. A real change from the busy pace of Rome. I could live there in quiet solitude for a long time I think. No wonder the monks chose places like that to live. The first abbey we visited was San Galgano. It's been untouched for a few hundred years so all that remains is the stone walls of the basilica. Very beautiful but it must've been quite a sight when it still had its stained glass windows and was occupied by monks. Also, this place had the sword in the stone. Like the real thing. Awesome.
Next, we went to Montalcino, home of Brunello wine which is perhaps the best wine in the world and very expensive. There we had lunch and visited Sant'Antimo. This abbey is occupied by 10 monks. It had been closed for a couple hundred years but was reopened in the 1980's I think. A gorgeous simple church. The best part is that it is made from onyx which glows shades of red/orange/yellow when light shines on it. In the mornings when light comes in from the main windows, the entire church is illuminated and the stones glow. Also, the monks sing Gregorian chants every day. Imagine a church glowing with light and filled with the voices of monks. We didn't get to see that because we were there in the afternoon but it is certainly something to revisit. This abbey was built by Charlemagne so it is definitely old and it was an impotrant stop on many pilgrimages ebcause it holds the relics of St. Sebastian.
Anyway, it was a lovely trip, a welcome respite. Tuscan countryside is absurd. It's like stepping into a postcard. And we had bright, fresh weather which makes everything seem better. So I'm very happy I went. Hopefully I'll be able to go back to Tuscany. There are tons of little towns that are so picturesque and adorable. So that's what I did this weekend. Also I went to a restaurant with Molly and Meryl where the owner was extraordinarily nice and kept giving us things. Could've been usual creepy Italian man thing but I'm getting used to that. They just can't help it. Or if it was a ploy to get us to come back, it worked. I would've come back anyway because home-made pasta is the most delicious thing ever. On Friday Esther and I went to San Giovanni Laterano and the Capitlone Museums. Both places I will revisit. Especailly San Giovanni because that might be the most important church in the world. It's the Pope's home church (not St. Peter's) and lots of important papal sutff happens there. Plus it's pretty to look at. Other than that, I slept and wasted time.

How to Crash Mass at the Vatican

1. Decide to go to Mass at the Vatican where at 7 AM daily priests from all over the world celebrate Mass in their native language. Go with your roommate and another friend who is about 6 and 1/2 feet tall.
2. Show up and follow the little crowd into St. Peter's.
3. See Masses happening at all the altars but be a little confused about where an English-speaking priest might be.
4. Follow a random priest to the very front of the Basilica and sit down in a pew. Priests always know where Mass is so you'll be fine.
5. Look around after a bit and realize all the people sitting in front of you are male. You and your roommate are the only women in sight.
6. Realize all these men are priests and are now changing into their white vestments. You with your dark coat don't fit in even more. Also you're ruining the pictures the priests are taking of all the other priests. They probably don't want some American kids in the background.
7. Feel a little uncomfortable. You don't belong there. You, your roommate, and the tallest man alive don't belong at all.
8. Remain sitting though. Despite the fact that a couple hundred priests in white are surrounding you and giving you funny looks.
9. Mass begins. After a few moments, your very tall friend will become excited. The priest celebrating the Mass is Cardinal Bertone. The 2nd most important man in the Vatican. A big deal. The pciture taking makes sense now.
10. You won't understand Mass because it's in Italian. Go with it.
11. Put your head down and pray hard. Pray because you're uncomfortable and don't want God to be mad. But kicking someone out of of Mass isn't very Catholic so you should be fine.
12. A kindly priest will direct you to the Communion line in the back where seminarians anc a couple of nuns are. Go to that line. Do not go to the front line with all the priests.
13. After Mass ends and the the processional has passed your pew, walk quickly out. Notice the couple hundred of lay people who are in sections set apart from the priests. That's where you belong, not among the priests.
14. Know you were very much in the wrong place.
15. Walking quickly out, you will be stopped by a secuity guard. You're too clsoe to the very important man and coming from the wrong direction.
16. Look confused. Security will direct some stern words/looks at you but eventually usher you away from the important people and toward the exit.
17. Proceed out of St. Peter's.
Now, you have successfully crashed Mass with one of the most important men in the entire Catholic Church and even the world.

I should've written about this the day that it happened but I got a little lazy. Anyway, that was a surreal experience. Kind of awful and awesome while it was happening. Although I knew that this would become one of the greatest stories of my life, one to be told and retold for years to come. It's better when I tell it in person so you should have em do that one day. I wish I had pictures to show you just how funny this all was. Well, I guess those priests have pictures of it. I think that was one of the most uncomfortable but coolest Masses I have ever been to. I can't really top myself now unless I do something that brings me into contact with the Pope.

I went to Mass

Thai food is delicious in every country but it's probably best in Thailand.
Esther and I went to church yesterday at Santa Maria in Trastevere. We were trying to go to San Giovanni Laterano but there were no busses going our way and it's a long walk and so we would've missed Mass. Anyway, Santa Maria is pretty nice too. At one time it was the seat of the Pope so it's got that going for it. Also it is gorgeous. We were a little bit late but that was ok. The church was full of people which was nice to see, especially when I'm used to lackluster attendance at home. And there were six priests. Six! For a regular Sunday mass. With lots of altar servers too. Amazing. I didn't really know what the priests were saying because it was in Italian but a Catholic mass is a Catholic mass no matter what language so I knew what was going on. I think being there made me the most homesick I've been so far. But not in a bad way, more I was just thinking about home and I knew exactly how mass would be there and that Mom would go and maybe Dad and the boys if they're around. I don't know. I guess it's that being at Mass is so comfortable. It's such a solid thing and I can't really feel out of place there in a church even if it thousands of miles from home and in a foreign language. That's how it should be after all. We're a community, a universal Church. Yeah, so that was really nice. I will hopefully be attending many more Masses at many more churches. Also Mom and Dad called me later that afternoon so I got to talk to them. Extraordinarily nice.
And I went to Scholar's Lounge (one of Rome's Irish pubs) to watch the Super Bowl. Lots of Chicago fans there and they were disappointed but I didn't care. Also I realized I can go to Scholar's to watch the Six Nations which I will be doing. Hooray for international sports. Ashly and I and probably some other roommates are also going to be getting tickets to a Roma game soon. It won't be Roma v. Lazio though because those tickets are crazy hard to get and also I don't want to be there when there is rioting. Because there was rioting in Sicily a couple days ago so all Serie A matches have been suspended. Hooligans, I have something to tell you. If you riot and people get injured and a police officer is killed, calcio will be cancelled. Don't do it.

DM13

Dance Marathon raised some $880,000 this year. By far the most we've ever raised and well past our goal for the year. Thank you to everyone who supported us and the kids. It means more than you can know. I'm just sorry that I couldn't be at the event to see it all come together. It's a really special time. I know there are people out there who hate DM and don't understand why we even have an event. It's hard to explain unless you've been there and felt the community and played with the kids and been a part of those circles. Not being there is harder than I realized but at least all the kids and famlies had the support they deserve. Thank you again to everyone who has been a part of Dance Marathon in any way. It's always FTK.

In which I discuss some buildings and other relevant things

So I've been kicking it around the apartment lately. Sickly roommates need company. But I went out walking yesterday because it was sunny and bright and warmer than it has been. Of course I got lost bu I eventually found my way without consulting the map. I know I will always eventually end up at Largo Argentina where I can jump on the tram (#8...the 3 doesn't exist as a tram, it's a bus which we found out the hard way). It's funny that I should always end up there because it's the site of the Area Sacra which is Latin for 'some Republican temples that we don't really know much about and are now a cat sanctuary.' In high school I did a project on the Area Sacra and constructed models of what these temples probably looked like. If you go to my home in PA, you can still see them. My mom really liked the project. Anyway, let's talk about the Pantheon for a minute. I really like going there, almost as much as I like going to the Vatican. I wish I were an architect because then I could appreciate it for its unparalleled architecture. An unreinforced dome! They still don't understand how it was all constructed! I think that's cool. I also looked at some of Bernini's work and saw the remains of St. Catherine of Siena. It's bizarre how I can just wander into any church and there are pieces of art from the greatest artists ever and also religious spectacles like saints' bones. Awesome. I think I should probably attend Mass tomorrow but I can't decide which church. There are so many! Also, I just remembered...professor who is archaeologist and awesome said Esther and I can definitely help him in Ostia. He even has a friend who is starting a new dig soon and we might be able to work on that too! I can and will become Indiana Jones. Tonight: Roommates and I go out in search of Thai food.